lunedì 7 aprile 2014

Similitudini - The small things that make bouldering great

The aspects I mostly look for in bouldering are basically two. Two seem to be not too much, but at the end they are a lot, considering that each of them has infinitive sensations, multiple variables and wonderful combinations. The first one is definitively the beauty. Trying, brushing, looking and climbing a boulder I like, that gives me something, that is able to offer great feelings is sure the best thing to search for.

Based on my personal tastes, a line expresses its own beauty through various factors. In fact I don't like to catch the beauty in general, but I love to appreciate the different features that a piece of rock offers.

Some boulders can inspire me when just one of this factor is at the top of the quality, like for example the quality of the holds, its aspect, its rock, the line itself, the moves and also the place around. The stunning lines happens obviously when all those features are at the top for your personal tastes and requests.

The second aspect I love to discover regards the physical part, a bit more sporting, but always linked to a personal experience and a personal comparison with the climbing. Trying the problems on the own limits, not limits in term of grades, but in terms of mental and  physical difficulty, is always motivating. What is really nice to discover is how bouldering on the limits is composed by tiny actions, small modifies on the beta and imperceptible differences in the positions of the hands and of the body. When I can discover those little things, attempt after attempt, session after session, the key of the success is showed and you have just to execute what you have understood. 

These small details can show other little parts of the puzzle and when you add all of them they can make a big results that is the full sequence to get the top. I remember this approach on some of the hardest line I did like "Entlinge", "Boxwood Hill", "Meadowlark Lemon" and others too. Recently this thing happened on "Similitudini" in Aosta Valley, a line that I brushed with Gabri and even though the line is not as good as others, the movements are really nice and motivating.

After brushing it, the holds had already a good grip so we started pushing us up each other to get the beta of the new rig. The moves were done after the first session, the first part of two singles were harder than a second one more understandable that required just a bit of conviction to grab the final lip. I knew the hardest part would have been to find the good link for the first move and I was too tired to try it from the start. I was anyway happy; I did the move but I knew there would have been much more to discover to link it all together.


The second day of work lasted a lot, but the time was sufficient  to finish this line. Everything was thanks to those little things that composed the betas. The hand in a super precise point gave a better position for the crucial heel hook, the fingers in an exact point of the sloper made the bump easier, the ring finger and the pinky on the first holds changed for few millimeters. That hold became better and at the end everything looked more possible. My mind, seeing those little improvements changed in a positive way, the motivation went up and the feelings became better in better understanding the process of the small things and I was able to send it. 

Similitudini, FA. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Similitudini, FA. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Similitudini, FA. Photo Giulia Paoletti

martedì 18 marzo 2014

Two videos from US


The US trip is finished almost one month ago and those lands are missing me. Fortunately, Giulia and I filmed some boulders I sent oversea and the first two clips about our climbing journey are ready. The first one regards Bishop, where I searched to include the highest lines I managed to climb in that area. As the description said, it has been called Giant for the different sizes that we didn't used to, from every kind of thing and obviously also for the height of the stones. While the second video is a little reportage about one of my favorite line, i.e. the impressive red-orange masterpiece of "Meadowlark Lemon" in Gateway canyon (Red Rocks). I hope you enjoy both of them.

                                 

                                                        GIANTS Bishop (CA) from niky_ceria on Vimeo.



                                 

                                                  Meadowlark Lemon V14 - Red Rocks from niky_ceria on Vimeo.

domenica 16 marzo 2014

New project

The return from US has been quite fuzzy and until today I had not so many items to tell about . The jet leg lasted more than what I expected and the days went on without exactly knowing what I would have done in this spring period. I don't know the next destination for bouldering, so I decided to restart training in the climbing gym, on the fingerboard and climbing in Ticino until the real and boring heat will break out.

The days in Swiss were fun and I was able to get there five times. All the days I tried new problems, with improvements, worsening and some top out. Some of them required me a bit of work to search personal betas, by avoiding the movements typical of my lacks and exalting the sequences that suited my climbing style. This process happened for "Big Paw", "from dirt grows the flowers", "Insanity of Grandeur" and "Santoku", where my betas were a bit or totally different than my mates' ones. I hadn't the success I wanted on these lines, but they are definitively on the list for the fall, when I hope to get some improvements and make the ascents closer than in those days. Despite the fails, I managed to climb some easier lines like "Bella Luna" 8B, the low start version of "Alphane Moon", "Delusion of grandeur" 8A+, "Walk the line" 8A+ and "Einfisch Kleinfisch" 8A+ where the knee-pad made a really difference in terms of difficulty.

The other great day of climbing, or better of brushing, took place in Donnas, just at the beginning of the Aosta Valley. It has been a really awesome afternoon, where I was finally able to brush a stunning piece of rock that was in my mind from few seasons. The Area is located in the front side of Donnas, in a hamlet of the homonymous village, and as many times happens, Marco was the first that lead me to discover the area. At the beginning we brushed and climbed some problems in the wood and some of them are worthy moderates; but the most inspiring block for him seemed to be at the end of that zone, and when he carried me there the looking of the north-east arete was simply incredible: tall, huge, rounded, slopy, technical and emotional.

Its shape appeared sometime in my mind and after US I decided to go to check this "forgotten" boulder. Last Thursday I went there with Giulia and we found a good place to bond the rope and go down on the other side, where the arete ends. That moment is always exciting. You don't know how the problem really is and you want to discover its true face really soon, removing the weak flakes, brushing its holds, putting the chalk on and see the magic emotion that a virgin pure line can offer. Feeling that moment is really important and this part of bouldering is definitively one of my favorite. You can see the line take shape, after the green patina, some holds look better and at the end they become magically white and your imagination become true. That's a really exciting way of bouldering, I usually love to alternate this side of climbing to the other one of repeating boulders already put up that is fun and important for the motivation but sure not the only way. At the end of the day the arete was cleaned, but maybe some little piece of rock is still moving and it has to have another session of brushing. I also had occasion to try a bit the movements, but obviously the holds were greasy and warm so I hadn't so many good efforts, especially in the hardest part that seems to require cold, good skin e perfectly cleaned holds. At least for me.


Here some photos of the arete I brushed. Obviously, if someone want to try this one, it would be a pleasure for me showing it.







domenica 23 febbraio 2014

Bishop, second part

I have Just got home after a long and weary journey from Bishop. The Us trip is now finished and the sweet memories are starting to fill my mind. There have been so many good moments, awesome pieces of rock, good bouldering in new places and different climbing every day. The time always ran really fast, but six weeks have been sufficient to have a lot of fun in the two spots we decided to visit i.e. Red Rocks and Bishop. As I wrote, the Buttermilks county deluded my expectations and until the end of the stay I was not able to get a perfect feeling with this famous spot.

Some of the problems have been anyway capable of surprising me, like the pure overhang of "The Spectre", one of the most incredible granite boulder you can image. The first session on it went pretty good, climbing it in two sequences except for the final slab which looked to be an important crux section for my poor slab skills. The same day, with a mix of light rain and dry conditions I got the ascent of Tony Lamiche's "Manadala sit start" V13, the super mega classic showed on the first dosages in 2000's. It was a good moment being at the top of such an important historic line despite I didn't like its holds and its excessive fame.

The last week started with a good skin but the temperature grew up really high as well as the drop of my physical shape due to the tiredness of the weeks before. On the second session on "The Spectre" I finally figured out the slab but the problem looked to be at the bottom, where my abdominals weren't strong enough to repeat the moves of the previous day. After half an hour came a strong sand storm and the air got up the pads. We had to go back home. After that day I quitted that problem, despite its beauty. I knew it would have been too hard for my tiredness so I started to focus on easier problems that I was interested in. The problems I was looking for were a bit high for the standard size I was used to, but trying them with the rope everything became more safe and more quiet for my fear. I was so impressed by many locals that are used to put up highballs that seemed as giant as a cliff. I decided to attempt some of them in the medium-high size, first of all the beautiful arête of “This side of paradise” aka “Bardini’s Arete” V10. At the first sight I was amazed by this: tall, huge, pure, beautiful climbing, yellow and a scary easy slab to top out.With the rope, I began to get a positive confidence on the slab and also on the upper moves on the prow which looked to be the hardest. My goal was to figure out a fast beta for all the arête to skip some movements in order to not get pumpy before the easy and delicate exit. The second day I went there with Robert, a Swedish guy, and under the hot spring sun my positive sensations turned into negative ones. I was not able to repeat the sequence and I felt really weak. The quick change of temperature usually gives me some hard time, in fact when the shade came my energies went up and I felt like another climber. Every moves went perfectly with the rope and the level of consciousness in the final slab was positive enough to try it ground up. I was anyway a bit tense. I knew it would have been great to climb a perfect problem like this, but I also knew that I had to do everything really well knowing my lacks on slabs. I turned the mind off and I rested. Robert started, he reached the good last hold before the easy top out and he felt too pumpy to continue. Giulia and I spotted him on the drop off and I thought that I would have been the next. I focused more and then I put the portable chalk bag, rarely used. I felt my mind ready and I got the slab, I breath as much as I can and I won the awesome problem. For an historical notion, the problem has been put up by Matt Wilder in 2005 and repeated by two courageous girls.

After that the other lines I wanted to try were always tall for my habits, but easier under the mental aspect. My aim was to climb something on the giant classic Grandma boulder, the biggest egg of rock I have ever seen. The first one was “foot prints” V9 with a really athletic intro that ends in a really long 5.10 slab until the top that I climbed focused but without big problems. Instead the second is the good boulder of “Evilution direct” V11 that gave me more troubles in the higher part. That evening was getting colder and with five pads the occasion to try this rig seemed appropriated. The first part to the lip was climbed well but at the jug top I started to feel my hands cold. I anyway tried to do the second part of the problem and in two more moves the left hand was totally numb. I stopped, I was confused and I looked down to jump, but maybe it was too late to choose the dropping off. I had no idea what I was grabbing with the hands. I was too scared to jump so I tried to go on, thinking about a possible and sudden snap from there. Fortunately the hand stayed and I could reach the good crimp and top it out. I want to say thanks to my buddies on the ground that push me up despite the little trouble.

After that day, the time was really ending and the melancholy grew up. Besides “Spectre”, there was “direction” at the top of the list, a boulder I really like for its movements and I wanted to finish it. I tried this line until the last day, but it seemed I should come back stronger on this kind of moves like jump and tiny crimps. I was anyway happy to see some progress on it during my long 6 sessions of work. Hope to finish it one day in the future.

The trip is over and I really have good memories about the first travel to US. I wasn’t not able to complete all of my bouldering wishes, but being there was definitely a great satisfaction.

Now it is time to go back training, thinking about some projects close to home and planning the next trip in another area to enjoy other kind of rock, different boulders and new landscapes.

Mandala sds V13, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti


Arete on Grandma 5.10, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

The Mystery V11, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti


Buttermilks main sector, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Buttermilks, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

venerdì 7 febbraio 2014

US trip, Bishop Chapter 1

Buttermilk road, Bishop

You hear Bishop and you immediately think about an amazing bouldering paradise, as the best spot of the world. This is probably due to the commonly positive and flatterer comments by the most part of the climbers that visited this area. Its fame is also made by the scenes of the famous American climbing films like Dosage 1, with the first ascents of Mandala, King lines and many other good videos about Bishop. Even for me was the same. I saw a pictures of "Mandala" in 2004 and after that I always heard speaking really well about the place. Probably I could be the unique, or maybe one of the few, but Bishop is definitely disappointing my expectations. We came here on the 28th of January and immediately got delusions from the Buttermilks sector, known as the best zone. We walk in the famous paths, we checked all the problems and the rock seemed to be one of the worst I have ever seen: sharp, with big grain and it makes painful and bad holds. Something looked cool, especially in the highest grade of difficulty, but not as good as I expected. Moreover the sector is close to the parking, where for all the day long there is an intensive comings and goings of climbers and so it seems to be in a seaside resort. The only few things that gave the impression to be nice were the place around the problems and the some shapes of the boulders. When the second day was over, after dinner we were already looking for another place to go, escaping by this. Joe's valley came in my mind, but it was too cold and a bit hard under the logistic aspect. We decided to stay here for all the 3 planned weeks. Now the sensations are going better, but for sure Bishop is out of the top 15 places where I have climbed. My negative opinions are certainly personal, in fact I usually search to describe what I saw with a subjective vision: from the point of view of the natural places, of the kind of rock where I climb, of the quality of the problems, its shapes, holds, suggestions about difficulty and so on. Buttermilks offers also other secondary sectors, with different landscapes and good lines to climb, even though the rock is still one of the worst.

The first ten days are over and I managed to climb some lines, but without sending the main desired boulders. The first day I took down "Buttermilker" V12/V13, maybe one of the best in Bishop. It has been put up by the American pioneer Chris Sharma in 1999. The problem is certainly good, but is not to be compared with the quality of Red Rocks. I had fun on it and the movements are pleasant. The other goods lines I was able to send are "Haroun the sea of stories", which personally deserves a full V12 and "Xavier’s roof" V11 in Dale’s camp sector. The first one is huge, with huecos in the first part and a long crimpy pumpy wall to reach at the end. It was nice to send it and thanks to the push of Alex and Mat (two guys we met and we are climbing with), I did the mantle after few goes. Also "Xavier's roof" has been cool, maybe my favorite one so far, with an incredible last move to a giant hueco.

A bit disappointed by the Buttermilks, we often went to the other sector, "happy boulders". it is in another direction from the Buttermilks but not so far from this. Here, it is really curious to see how the rock formations change as well as the place, despite the distance is not so big. The rock is volcanic, so from the tiny granite crimps, you can pass to walls full of pockets, big crimps and some slopers which weirdly seemed to be not painful. It is situated in a sienna painted canyon that splits in two a perfect plateau, this last flat like a table. You climb in the canyon where every rock looked broken and holey, but in some points you can see a perfect, clear, smooth and flat piece of earth up to the bouldering sector. The problems appeared better for my tastes and for Giulia's ones, who hates the granite we found. The easy-medium boulders are really much better and also in some harder lines the rock is softer and it makes cool conformations. The best problems I have done here are the traverse of "Bubba Lobotomy" V12 and "Kill on sight" V11. Bubba is a line of few days ago and its climbing is funny. The traverse has a big quantity of pockets that finishes on a good rail to make a big double dyno at the edge. After this awesome move, you top the boulder out on the infinite desert table , watching the canyon below your feet with the pumpy arms. Really nice moment.


Now we had still 14 days, in which I hope to finish some projects in the buttermilks sector like "Mandala sds"  first and then many others. I am feeling that it still too early to try hard crimpy stuff with the skin I have at the moment. It is now quite soft and I hope to get the stronger skin I have ever had soon, in order to push hard on the tiny sharp crimps. I had also some good lines I have still to attempt like the beautiful "The Spectre" that  might be the best here, together with "This side of Paradise" and "Jedi Mind tricks". For the moment, some shoots taken by Giulia and I, about our first part of the trip in California and some problems done.



Xavier's Roof V11, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Harun and the sea of story V12, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Evolution (to the lip) V10, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti


Giuly on Pirate booty V3, Bishop.

Bishop, Photo Giulia Paoletti

Bubba Lobotomy V12, Bishop. Photo Giulia Paoletti

giovedì 30 gennaio 2014

Red rocks - The second part

With the ascent of the incredible “Meadowlark lemon” I finished my trip to Red rocks. Two weeks ran really quickly and the time looked faster than in other climbing moments. During the second part of my stay, I had also two pretty nice resting days, when Giulia and I enjoyed two of the great natural parks of the country. The first of these has been the death valley national park, one of the hottest point on the earth with its depression below the sea level. The driving required 2 hours from Vegas, but it has been definitively worthy. I love seeing natural places and this one is really particular. It is huge and we had just time to check three of the many spots that the park offers. It has really different contests from salt dunes, sailing stones, sandy dunes, rocky dunes, desert valley, colored conformations, sales desert and many other natural features. We just visit the sandy dunes, the salt expanses, Zabriski point and the colored mountains. It was fun. The second day in a park was in the Bryce canyon, located 2500 meters on the sea level. I was quite doubtful about this, but in the end we decided to go, despite the 4 hours of car to move towards Utah. Probably it doesn't worth the long driving from Vegas in a day, But it is certainly another amazing environment I saw. It was not various as death valley, it has basically just one landscape but it is breathtaking. Those are two photos that I tried to take. On the web you can find best photos that represent what the nature can do.

Death Valley National Park - CA

Bryce Canyon National Park - UT

The second week in Vegas began with a day in “Red Spring” sector, a new area for us. The place is close to a pic nic area, where every persons asked us about the use of the pads. In the morning I checked the cool wall of "the red wave" V10, an historical wall that counts just one move with a big swing. I completed it after few goes and it was a beautiful feeling, like many essential problems are able to give. I was happy for its simplicity and its aspect. The other good day was in Gateway canyon when I climbed again in Giant boulder area sending "Lethal design" V12, one of the worst in Red Rocks in my opinion, "Stake your claim" V9, "Abstraction" V9 and I missed the single move of "Aktrite". "Abstraction" is another impressive problem I did there. It is simply emotional at its sight. It appears like a big chip of milky chocolate, with sidepulls for the right hand and a lip for the left one, characterized by a technical climbing style that recall me Fontainebleau. It looked perfect. I was under it with Daniel, a guy from California I met in the morning and we were both syked to try this inviting piece of sandstone. We tried to figure it out and after some time of work and some pushing each other, we understood a possible beta. I failed at the top since I was afraid, so we quickly went to took other pads under the giant boulder. We were both happy to have find a good beta that would have worked on a this arête. We covered every stones with the pads and safely I reached the top. I was dazzled again. It deals of one of the best problems of this difficult I have done and thanks to its spotting I was able to send.

Abstraction V9. Photo Giulia Paoletti


The day after I came back In Black velvet canyon where I finished the line of "wet dream" V12. After the pumpy sending I rested a bit and I understood still once again how strange is bouldering. I put the pad to try the right version, which is graded easier, just curious to try the different moves of the bottom. The first part went pretty well and I reached the end where from a slopy good rail you have to lock the finger in a crack (same moves of the original version). I tried 5 or 6 times and I wasn't anymore able to lock them. I was with the same hands, same feet but maybe, coming from the right, my position was just a bit off by the correct one and I went down. I became crazy and at the same time happy to see every time how the bouldering requires precision, technique with the right balancing of strength and body positions in the correct moment. A detailed difference can do a big change from sending a problem or failing it more and more, attempts after attempts just for a question of millimeters. it is hard and funny at the same moment.
In the afternoon I tried a possible left start version, that would have joined into "wet dream" adding three more moves. The start might be not perfectly logical, but the moves and the rock of the first rail are awesome, so I felt motivated to try. I linked the first problem discovering the beta and I started to be positive. After a long rest I gave a try and I failed at the end, tired, pumpy and a bit nervous. I was too tired to try it once more, since it would have been too physical for the few energies I had. So I did "red dragon" V6 and then I got back home to eat.

On Wednesday we planned to go to check the super classic “stand and deliver” V9/V10, at the top of a canyon called Juniper. I knew the hiking would have been really long, but I didn’t aspect such a tiring path. We took one hour and 10 minutes to reach this problem but the walking worth a lot for this gem that isn’t so hard but it has a high quality rock. The flash attempt was ridiculous as usual and I was at the top on my second go. While doing its mantle , every kind of doubt about the hiking vanished. In the evening we had still a bit of time to check “Siren’s call” V11 in Pine creek canyon since it was on the way of the return. The day was closed successfully, taking the ascent of this little boulder with super essential moves.

I needed a rest. My plans were to go back on Meadowlark but I would have liked to be totally new to try it seriously, so we took two full days off. They worked well and they gave me a full charge of energy that were really helpful on the sessions on Meadowlark on Saturday.
After that my skin wasn’t good, but I felt that I would have had to attempt one more day the left version of “wet dream” in Black velvet canyon. Also this one has been put up by Ethan Pringle, who got free some good lines out of Vegas. The first part of the problem went well as usual but I still had troubles on the crack lock at the end. I wasn’t able to understand the reason of this issue. Every time the lock went well but from the previous day I wasn’t any more capable of using that strange hold. It was frustrating. Moreover I knew it was the last day in the desert and my skin started to be bad. I knew that If I would have climbed it I would have had just few more goes. Giulia kindly pushed me to feel more times the problematic crack, and I fall every time. I tried to lock the fingers, I got up the foot and I went out. After many goes I finally understood a different and better position, probably the first used in the first day, when the lock was perfect. It was just a small difference, almost imperceptible that at the end made a huge improvement. I did the single move and I got a long rest. Some girls were trying “wet dream” and I looked at them really impressed. The line is totally physical and they were able to do many moves on this “male” overhanging. It was nice to see their motivation. The rest finished and I finally reached the top of this left version. I was happy to have understood my problems about that hold.

The days was at the end. I didn’t want to leave this area and a bit of melancholy grew up. I climbed the last easy ascent of “Natasha’s highball” and then I called it the day.

Now we are in Bishop and the rock is totally different. Sharp granite, painful edges and bad holds. I hope to get more positive feeling in the next weeks of climbing in this area.

The life in Black Velvet Canyon


Nocturnal Emissions V13/Wet Dream V12. Photo Giulia Paoletti
Nocturnal Emissions V13. Photo Giulia Paoletti

domenica 26 gennaio 2014

Meadowlark Lemon

The first time I saw a picture of "Meadowlark lemon" (red rocks) was I guess two years ago, when the news about Paul Robinson's first ascent came out. I still remember I was impressed by its looking: at least from the pictures it apperead amazing ans it suddenly tickled my interest. I didn't know when, where, how or with who I could have gone to US for the first time, but I was sure that in the future I would have checked that line. The opinion by the first repeatitors was excellent, and It quickly became a world class bouldering problem.

My first trip to US was organized months ago and Red rocks wasn't casually the first part of my trip. The place is amazing, as I said, with a lot of stuff to do, but my pricipal goal was the problem that lead me to check Southern Nevada i.e. Meadowlark.

Last week, after two years of waiting, I was finally able to see it and touch it. The true looking is better than every photos and my eyes sparkled the first day I saw it. The first session went pretty good for the stand start, but not for the link of both sequences. The problem regarded the technique, since from the bottom I reached the crux point a bit more tired and my hand where not in the same exact position that they should have had. The second session had negative feelings too. I climbed well the first part, but the body didn't answer where I need a surgical precision for my hands to be in the right angle to go up. It drove me crazy and I started to think it would have been too hard for my possibilities.

My beta develops in some tricky moves. Once I had the upper left sloper I had to move with the right hand into the slopy gaston, keep the right toe hook solid enough to get up the left foot. After this, I had to take with the left hand the askew undercling below my hip (used for the first part), put my right foot on a small edge, bring back my left foot in an high foot hold and get up my right one close to the left hand for match the hands in the gaston. This turn of feet and hands was crazy and I usually missed the foot moves.

I did other attempts. Every time it went worse. I slowly felt that I should have quitted this goal and postponed it to another visit with maybe more experience. The more I tried, the more I failed. I was dissapointed. I thought about the hours of flight, the training I did for this, the dream I had for this and I felt a bit beaten.

I took a final decision. I opted to don't try it anymore until the end of my stay in Red Rocks. My aim was to climb as much as I could on other problems, in order to take confidence with this sandstone and to have the better skin  to try it in a better way.

I took two days of rest at the end of the week and today was the unique good change I would have had. After the morning in Red spring sector, we moved in the kraft parking. We walked and I was a bit tense. Fortunately I was more relaxed than the second time. I went  under Meadwolark and it looked great as always. I felt more positive. I took with me an old Jet7, it saved me many times in some toe hooks problems. I tried and I felt the crux going better. I gave a try from the bottom and  I miserably failed once more at the same point. I reached the crux point tired, with the hands in a bad positition. Moreover, the only thing  I rested for, i.e. the skin, was terrible. I felt everything slip off from my hands. I got nervous and I became negative again. This boulder was frustrating and I started to be tired to have any good attempt.

I rested and Giulia went to walk around let me alone with my troubles. I was alone in the pink canyon, in company of some usual tourists that pass close to the boulder. I arranged a bit the first part, changing a bit the foot beta. The little modify gave me the possibility to reach faster and more precisely the crux. It started to work a bit but again my skin became full of water after two holds. I understood I should have let them freeze a bit before the attempts and dry them before start.
I reached the crux. I did the feet turn and I fall matching the hands, the last hard move. I said WOW, I could do it. Maybe not today but I started to see some progresses.

Second attempt with the cold hands: I reached the crux, I did perfectly the foot work. I was grabbing the hold with the other hand and I was solid as I never was before, but my right hand slipped really fast and It crushed me on the pads. It burnt a lot. I felt again out of this game, at least for that day. I put my normal shoes and I went to check another problem just above this, resting my body. In my mind the planning were already to come back on Monday, before leaving, to give the last effort. I went back to the problem and Giulia too. I rested more then I started again. Everything went perfectly until the same point. I put my feet well, I felt my skin good despite the previuos accident, I macthed the hold and I still was on it. I tried to stay quite, I knew it was almost over. I got up on my feet, stretching on the good right crimp. From there the possibilities to fall are low, but I remained focused. I took the last slopy pinch and I grabbed the lip with the right hand. I was at the top. What an incredible moment for me. The emotions started to grove high and I was fucking happy. My biggest desire of Red rocks went down and I couldn't believe. I remained on the top for few minutes than I went down to take some photos and remove for the last time the tickmarks on this awesome piece of rock. Meadowlark Lemon was done.

The boulder Is one of the most impressive I have ever seen and it is for sure at the top of the high quality lines I sent. I felt to say hats off to Paul Robinson to have put this stunning line, it is defenitely a materpiece of bouldering. I also had to say that I used a different beta from him, Since the new ways are easier. I just tried a bit with the sequence he used and I quickly understood how much harder it would have been.


Meadowlark Lemon V14, Red Rocks. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Meadowlark Lemon V14, Red Rocks. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Meadowlark Lemon V14, Red Rocks. Photo Giulia Paoletti